Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at the Spring/Summer 2024 Men’s Fashion Month designers and collections to watch.
A host of exciting collections during SS24 Fashion Month, heralded a new way forward for menswear. Experiments with materials and abstract approaches to construction produced pieces that were both conceptual and wearable. Interesting new finishing techniques and treatments combined with past pop culture references and vintage inflections underpinned these fresh ideas with nostalgic recognition.
By slightly altering each look, Hed Mayner’s collection demonstrated how our need to buy new clothing constantly is obsolete. Through twisting, creasing, and magnifying design elements, Mayner manipulated and abstracted menswear garments to create unique shapes. Giving clothing a refreshed purpose, vintage apparel was crinkled as though found in a drawer, and individual shirts were stitched into one. Elsewhere, two jackets were glued together, one larger than the other, and large multi-pockets on gilets became almost like wearable bags. The extreme silhouettes gave the collection a modern feel, displaying practicality and an innovative interpretation of ‘normal’ British wardrobe staples.
In a tribute to Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry, Saunders dedicated her collection to the pioneering music producer to explore the carefree approach of the ‘70s and ‘80s. Using Perry’s scrapbook-style artworks for graphic t-shirts, oversized and loose-fit silhouettes accumulated in a lightweight and laid-back collection. Subversive cutting techniques transformed uncomplicated menswear garments. By warping and twisting fabric on workwear staples such as denim shirts and overcoats, Saunders created subtly asymmetric, stylistic detailing. On some looks, shiny tape appeared to be haphazardly stuck on to create ruched fabric that introduced intriguing construction techniques to utilitarian everyday wear.
1017 ALYX 9SM
The addition of unexplored materials into the Alyx repertoire, lent the brand a feeling of elevation and elegance this season. Whilst heavier materials and hardware demonstrated the brand’s signature edgy depths, dying techniques on canvas and treated leather created texture, gave the collection a vintage-esque, urban feel. Denim jeans and retro tracksuit combinations emphasized this, with another new pathway for the brand that offered relaxed, versatile pieces. Woven jersey materials used for tracksuits and bomber jackets gave looks a vintage charm, injecting a nostalgic appeal. The hyper-modern workwear fused with softening vintage references exhibited elegant designs with a timeless vision.
FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s SS21 Key Themes Directions report. Simply click here to receive your free report.
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