For spring, Ynés Suelves proposed a different vision of Biarritz— one that featured no sailor stripes, but instead leaned into leopard print, with Queen on the soundtrack. Its specificity arose from the designer’s memories of her vacations in the French city, where she used to spend the summer with her family. “Everything starts from the sea of Biarritz, where my mother imagined a wonderful world of mermaids and nereids,” Suelves explained, mentioning the other creative half of the brand, artist María Osorio. An embroidered veil drawn by Osorio served as the starting point for all the mythological characters that populate the collection, seen in structured tops and elegant bucket hats.
From that first look on, all of Suelves’s details looked towards the sea. “I have focused a lot on volume and movement. I added crinolines to almost everything, to symbolize a floating-on-water effect,” she said. Wide skirts were combined with baseball jackets and knit separates, while sheer dresses alternated between fitted and more fluid lines. Jewelry, a key part of the brand, was refreshed for the new season in the form of drop earrings, crystal balls, and silver crowns. The most powerful statement came at the end of the show with the two closing looks of black and white nereids: “The last one represents tar and pollution, a call for help to save the ocean.”