The women’s footwear industry has learned to pivot in recent seasons
for two major reasons. First, there has been a move away from high
heels a.k.a pumps. The Covid-19 pandemic acted as a catalyst, speeding
up a movement that was already happening. Female consumers signaled
that they would like to purchase footwear that was more comfortable
and practical.
Second, there has been an increasing demand for shoes and boots that
traverse seasons and can be worn year-round. For the ss24 runway
season, many designers answered the call. In addition to showing
sandals, they accessorized a wide variety of looks with trans seasonal
footwear.
For every movement in fashion, there is a counterpoint, and the next
season will be no exception. For example, as much as quiet
luxury/stealth wealth will continue to trend, there is an
ultra-feminine alternative.
Kicking off
Accessorizing runway looks with rugged boots is not new. Marc Jacobs
caused a stir when he adopted this grunge style for his 1993
collection for Perry Ellis. They do go in and out of fashion but for
2024 they are back in full force, symbolizing a mood of youthful
rebellion and social activism.
Dion Lee
Black leather thigh high combat boots with a buckle closure and side pockets.
Noir Kei Ninomiya
Black leather platform boots in a basket weave and a toggle closure.
LuisaViaRoma
Silver side zip combat boots on a rubber lug platform sole with a
front lace-up decoration.
Ottolinger x Puma: designers Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient
Active-style boots in perforated silver faux leather with straps on
the shaft and black rubber spikes on the sole.
Victoria Beckham
Black leather flat heeled calf-high boots with a back closure.
Like the boys
Brands like The Row, Max Mara and Loro Piana exude ‘stealth wealth.’
Menswear-inspired footwear, such as loafers and brogues, are the
perfect choice to accessorize such timeless, understated styles.
Burberry: designer, Daniel Lee
An ivory loafer with a double stitched upper, mid-height black heel
and sole and a silver buckle with the Burberry logo on a strap.
Gucci: designer, Sabato De Sarno
A brown leather loafer on a super high platform with the classic Gucci bit.
Kiko Kostadinov
A modern brogue style slip-on with a pink patent leather toe cap and a
burgundy stretch leather upper.
Miu Miu: designer, Miuccia Prada
A brown leather and natural canvas brogue with a ghillie embellishment
and strap across the upper.
Antonio Marras
An olive-colored patent leather Oxford on a high lug-sole black platform.
Let’s Dance
#dancecore and #balletcore have been trending on TikTok this entire
year and see no signs of abating. The sort of footwear associated with
professional dancers including ballet slippers and character shoes
(Mary Janes and t-bars) were shown by several designers for ss24 and
move perfectly into the fall and Holiday seasons.
Akris: designer, Albert Kriemler
A slim line pointed toe silver leather Mary-Jane with a narrow strap.
Bally: designer, Simone Bellotti
A black leather Mary-Jane with a thick strap and a gold buckle, a
point toe and a high profile.
Fendi: designer, Kim Jones
A pale pink patent leather ballet flat with a gold ankle bracelet strap.
LuisaViaRoma
A hot pink satin flat with grommet embellishment and criss-cross ankle straps.
Miu Miu: designer, Miuccia Prada
A rounded toe shoe in tan with a high strap and a cube heel tagged
with a Miu Miu logo
To the max
Just as we have seen in the ready-to-wear categories, maximal
embellishment including 3D florals and other components, was a key
trend in footwear during the ss24 runway season.
Chanel: designer, Virginie Viard
A black boot with a small heel covered in tiny black camelias, the
House’s signature floral.
Comme des Garçon: designer, Rei Kawakubo
An multi-colored ankle boot with a stacked wedge heel embellished with
charms and jewelry components.
Gucci: designer, Sabato De Sarno
A pointed toe flat covered in strands of beaded crystal.
No.21: designer, Alessandro Dell’Acqua
A pointed toed nude colored flat with a strap high on the upper,
embellished with orange paillettes.
Shuting Qui
A pointed-toed boot with a yellow sculpted heel in multi-colored
tapestry and strands of iridescent paillettes.