Tory Burch Goes Mini for Spring 2024

The Tory Burchaissance (Toryssance?) has been undeniable the last few seasons; tastemakers that might not fit into the bucket of people who historically wore Tory Burch — think cool downtown fashion girls, or fashion-adjacent young people with influence — started embracing the brand’s ready-to-wear as it moved into a noticeably mode modern direction: Waists were cinched, the fabrics surprising (and paired together in interesting ways), the logos featured less prominently.

Of course, none of this happens in a vacuum. (Surely, some marketing and influencer teams worked diligently to get people excited about the latest arrivals.) But the brand has credited it back to Burch, who over the last five years has been able to focus more diligently on design. People might still associate the brand with scrunch flats and square totes with monogram, but those that know, know.

Much like the brand has become a frontrunner in the race of New York Fashion Week highlights, its namesake has her sights set forward for Spring 2024. At the American Museum of Natural History’s newly opened Gilder Center on Monday night, the designer presented a collection of viscose jersey dresses in candy colors with hoops lifting the short hems upwards, tunics covered in tiny bells and mesh tops that felt like the adult, real-world version of the costumes from a 2000s film about life in space. (Yes, my millennial brain went immediately to the the “Zenon” franchise.)

Unsurprisingly, Burch explained backstage to press that the inspiration was something completely different. “It was all about experimentation and taking things that were traditionally restrictive to women, reclaiming them and having them be part of the shape and form,” she said, “whether it was a hairnet or boning or crinoline, using it as more of something that would create a lightweight structure.”

This season, the emphasis is on fabrics that are light and unfussy, that don’t get in the way of the person wearing them: the aforementioned jerseys, nylon taffetas, stretch sablé crepes, satins, cottons and linens.

“One thing I was really set on is: How do you create pieces that have complexity, but (aren’t) tricky and are super flattering to female body?,” she said. “I wanted everything to be free and easy, but also be interesting and detailed.”

Though the spring line has that retro-future sensibility to it — silhouettes that draw clean lines and unexpected shapes, much like Pierre Cardin’s hoop dresses or Courrèges’ outerwear did — Burch doesn’t want her work to read as referential to any specific moment in time. “I didn’t want you to look at that collection and say, ‘Oh, that looks like the sixties or the nineties,” she explained, noting how she wants to speak to women broadly, not necessarily to a specific generation. “I wanted it to be present and then future.”

Burch has said, time and time again, that she takes her cues from women. They’re on her mind when she’s designing, and they’re who she thinks about when she’s working through a concept. She continues to push herself when it comes to styles that haven’t historically been associated with the brand — for Spring 2024, that means going tighter and shorter, with mini being the default hem on dresses and skirts. And the Tory Girl wears them with sandals, Mary Jane-esque flats and heels alike. She contains multitudes.

See every look from Tory Burch Spring 2024 below.