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I can’t remember the last time a timepiece caused a rupture of the sartorial zeitgeist the way the new Rolex Day-Date 36 “Puzzle Dial” has. (Actually, that’s hyperbole—this happens at least once a year. But this time feels different, I swear!)
Since its debut at the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show in late March, people have been either madly in love with this colorful, emoji-laden, puzzle piece-filled, enameled hunk of precious metal, or positively up in arms about it.
Mike Egerton – PA Images/Getty Images
For those who managed to ignore all the hullabaloo, here’s the deal: Rolex made a special version of its famed Day-Date—dubbed the “President,” this model is perhaps the watch most emblematic of Rolex as a luxury brand—and changed out the date wheel for one full of 31 emojis (including a kissing face and a panda but not, sadly, the smiling poop) ) and the day wheel for one full of uplifting words such as “Love,” “Faith,” and “Hope.” Then the watchmaker took the typically plain dial and made one up in champlevé enamel in the shape of colorful, interconnected puzzle pieces—and replaced the hour markers with baguette-cut sapphires.
The result is a lot, but some people who love it seem to really love it (myself included). One person who seems especially on board with it? John Mayer—the Grammy-winning musician and watch collector extraordinaire—who recently flew up to Carmel-by-the-Sea to pick one up from retailer Fourtané. There’s no denying Mayer’s role as a horological tastemaker—and already the public opinion on the “Puzzle Dial” seems to be turning thanks to his association with it.
But there’s another collector who, freed from past brand ambassadorships, seems just as infatuated with left-of-center Rolexes as Mr. Mayer—and that guy is none other than Tom Brady. The GOAT himself, no stranger to rare timepieces, was recently spotted sporting his own Rolex Day-Date 36 “Puzzle Dial” (this time in Everose gold), rocking it with a pair of aviators and a trench coat. These watches may be brand new, but they’re hard to come by even by Rolex standards—a particular authorized dealer might be allocated a singe piece (if they’re lucky), and that dealer knows exactly who’s getting first dibs. The names on that list are recognizable: Brady, Mayer, etc.
Regardless of one’s personal opinion of the watch, collectors at Mayer and Brady’s level can afford to wear whatever they damn well please. The fact that they both chose to wear the “Emoji” Day-Date is telling. Maybe this really is the watch for someone who already owns everything else? Or maybe it’s just fun.
