admin On a rainy Tuesday afternoon, the spring 2024 season of Copenhagen Fashion Week began at the Design Museum, where Danish designer A. Roege Hove presented a collection of structured, modern knitwear made with a near zero-waste production technique. The show opened with a sheer, white top embellished with silver beads that is part of the brand’s new partnership with century-old Danish design brand Georg Jenson. One might say that this particular garment—a sustainably made piece from an emerging designer who is paying homage to Denmark’s history—is emblematic of Copenhagen Fashion Week and its emerging talent.
An emphasis on sustainability and Danish design heritage are apparent in every detail of the five-day extravaganza. Presenting designers are required to meet sustainability guidelines set forth by the organization of Copenhagen Fashion Week in order to show. Plant-based materials, waste-reduction techniques, and paired-back collections prove that the city’s approach to fashion is not merely a marketing tactic. Meanwhile, the personal narratives behind each collection reveal dedication to the growing design community in Copenhagen. The city’s established brands—such as Cecilie Bahnsen, Saks Potts, and of course the #GanniGirls—may have paved the way for Copenhagen-based designers, but a new cohort of talent sets forth a fresh perspective on Scandi-girl style each season.
Although this year’s emerging designers run the gamut in terms of aesthetics, their shared sustainability ethos, appreciation for wearable clothing, and approach to storytelling make their distinct collections feel cohesive. Among the designers that presented their spring 2024 shows this season, here are the ones to watch, and shop, now.
After fine-tuning his skills at Dior, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen, designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan set out to create his eponymous brand with an emphasis on tailoring and textiles in 2014. In the last year, the Danish design house underwent a transformation as Tan stepped away from his namesake brand and designer Caroline Engelgaar, who previously worked with Tan, took over. While the brand has maintained its focus on perfected tailoring and elegant silhouettes, this year’s show was a departure: mid-length dresses with asymmetrical hemlines, peplum skirts, and floor-sweeping coats were just a few highlights from MKDT’s show last week.
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Founded by design duo Charlotte Eskildsen and Sophia Roe, this Copenhagen-based brand is best known for its monochrome collection knitwear and well-tailored essentials—think pleated trousers, cream-colored cardigans, and slightly oversized overcoats. This year, The Garment presented their spring 2024 collection in a sculpture room at Copenhagen’s Thorvaldsen’s Museum, where the show opened with a white napkin top paired with a black midi skirt and closed with an all-white, one-shoulder ensemble. The collection offered a fresh take on classic spring essentials while remaining true to the brand’s original commitment to designing a responsibly-made, paired-back selection of approachable everyday wear.
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Established in 2018 by designer Birgitte Herskind, this Danish brand puts a twist on today’s trend of quiet luxury with versatile leather, silk, and cotton wardrobe staples. Using organic and responsibly sourced materials that meet globally recognized sustainability certifications, Birgitte and her daughter, Andrea, create wardrobe essentials that feel equally timeless and contemporary. This season, the brand expanded its modern approach to everyday necessities with a show at Copenhagen’s Royal School of Art, where they presented tailored suiting, knitted separates, and variations of everyday trench coats.
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Danish sisters Julie and Marie Skall grew up in Northern Jutland, where their time spent outside inspired the duo to integrate their appreciation for nature into their own clothing line. With a focus on responsibly sourced materials such as Danish wool, linen, organic cotton, and recycled cashmere, Skall Studio produces the majority of their collection locally in Denmark, thus preserving local craftsmanship and maintaining a low-impact supply chain. The brand is known for their beloved cotton blouses, popover dresses, and GOTS-certified denim. This season, Skall Studio presented their latest collection at Copenhagen’s Garden of the Royal Library, where matching sets seemed to be an underlying theme of the collection: Knitwear, denim, cotton shirts, skirts, and pants, made for a smart system of interchangeable wardrobe staples.
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Founded in 2019, this conceptual knitwear brand is founded by Amalie Roge Hove, who previously designed for beloved Copenhagen-based design house Cecile Bahnsen. In her collections, Hove draws upon Denmark’s history as a global design leader by marrying an appreciation for structure and silhouette with her expertise in knit fabrics. Her knitting process involves a “no waste” production model, which means each collection is designed as close to demand as possible and the materials are resourced accordingly. This season, Hove gave a nod to her Danish roots by introducing a collaboration with Danish design brand Georg Jenson, integrating Jenson’s signature silver into her ready-to-wear collection and a new jewelry partnership.
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A Ukrainian brand known for its use of plant-based materials, TG Botanical was founded by designer Tegyana Chumak. While the brand was just launched in 2020 and presented its first collection last season, it is now integral to the Copenhagen Fashion Week scene. The designer integrates eco-friendly materials, herbal dyeing techniques, and her family’s history in farming to produce nature-based fabrics from nettle, flax, and hemp. The brand’s spring 2024 show took place alongside Copenhagen’s canal, where models wore a collection of muted green, mustard yellow, and electric blue knitwear. The colors were created from natural elements such as tansy flowers, acorns, onion husks, and coffee beans, and the silhouettes reflected the designer’s appreciation for fitted, comfortable skirts, sets, and dresses.
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Behind this London-based brand is a design team of two: former Central Saint Martins design peers Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard. After launching in 2021, the pair combined their appreciation for natural dyes, folkloric tradition, and futuristic innovation to create a collection of Y2K-inspired clothing. Already beloved by SSENSE shoppers, Paolina Russo won the Zalando Visionary Award and was a finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2023. This season, the team brought their collection to Copenhagen to share their futuristic knits and new denim collection with a new audience.
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Danish designer Elisabet Stamm launched her brand in 2022, and quickly won the Zalando Sustainability Award after debuting her fall 2023 collection at CPHFW. Inspired by modern streetwear, Stamm’s collection of jersey dresses, puffer jackets, nylon pants, and T-shirts consists of careful color combinations and brand messaging. With an appreciation for self-expression and empowerment, the brand sets forth gender-fluid pieces that feel equally casual and celebratory. For her spring 2024 show, the designer presented a collection of street wear followed by a performance from Swedish rapper Silvana Imam, who wore one of the brand’s beloved printed puffer jackets and matching pants.
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Copenhagen-based designer Marie Mark founded Kernemilk in 2019 out of her apartment in Nørrebro. Committed to the idea that a fashion brand can be sustainably made without forgoing beauty and aesthetics, Mark chooses materials that are preloved. Kernemilk uses every scrap of leftover fabric from her own designs to create a collection of accessories and apparel called “SCRAPS.” Additionally, the brand places an emphasis on encouraging positive self-image by creating comfortable garments everyone can wear. In their spring 2024 show, Kernemilk presented a series of their beloved cutout tank tops and dresses in addition to a new set of modernized sportswear.
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This Copenhagen-based designer explores the relationship between textiles and form through his personal experience with fashion. Nicklas, the founder, taught himself weaving and designs his own textiles, which are sewn into dresses that feel celebratory, romantic, and vintage. After crafting swatches of fabric himself, he experiments with form to see what kind of shape they can hold. Skovgaard prioritizes waste minimization by only creating the exact amount of fabric needed for the fabric and creates every piece as a one-of-a-kind creation locally in Copenhagen. This season, Skovgaard drew inspiration from his mother, from whom he learned about the event of getting dressed. While designing his spring collection of dresses, the designer kept a photo of his mother up on the wall of his studio.
