Milan Fashion Week may be in an era of transition, with the many comings and goings of creative directors at top houses, but there was a remarkable amount of consistency across collections, making a number of Spring 2024 trends easy to identify.
It’s been a leggy season, with barely-there shorts playing a role in most designers’ offerings, often paired with matching blazers for a suiting moment. Wardrobe basics like vests and henleys were made to feel new. Designers also rarely sent looks down the runway without fringe or strips of fabric in some form dangling and swishing as models walked. Color-wise, the Milanese houses invested heavily in nudes, deep reds (especially in leather) and bright, electric greens.
See all the top trends of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2024 below.
Micro Shorts
The mini skirt has officially been replaced by the mini short. Milan designers are nearly unanimous in their belief that our shorts should show as much leg as possible next spring. Despite their brevity, styles range from trouser-like cuts at Gucci and Tom Ford, to pieces that look like little more than expensive underwear. (The Miu Miu effect?) My question is: Will normal people actually wear these in real life?
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Nude Sheerness
Another way designers used clothing to highlight skin was by covering the body in transparent beige or “nude” fabrics. Sometimes the effect is soft and romantic, by way of Grecian-like draping at Alberta Ferretti and the light-as-air dresses at Prada. N.21 and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini used sparkle to glamorous effect, while Diesel and Blumarine went in a fetishistic direction by plastic-like materials.
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Electric Citrus Green
It wasn’t all about Gucci red this season: Pops of this in-your-face acidic green appeared throughout many collections, with brands including Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Benetton, Tod’s and Vivetta making it look shockingly appealing.
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Short Suiting
Italians love a suit, and for Spring 2024, designers focused their tailoring expertise on blazers with shorts in lieu of trousers — including references to Tom Ford-era Gucci at both Tom Ford and Gucci. As mentioned above, short lengths are extra short this season, so while these may not be appropriate for most offices (or practical for any commute that involves sitting on public transportation), they look really great, especially in leather at Bally.
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Reflective Fringe
Fringe was all over the Milan runways, but often not in the ways you might expect: Labels like Prada, Del Core, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli got inventive with fabric and texture, using glittery, shiny and tinsel-like materials for dangling accents that shine and reflect light as you walk.
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Worn-in Leather Vests
Vests have been a staple across the Spring 2024 runways, but Milanese designers gave them a leather update. This may be another example of the Miu Miu effect — even Prada showed one with cargo pockets, while Andreadamo, Calcaterra and MM6 offered oversized options perfect for layering.
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Spiderweb Distressing
Many Milan designers found inventive ways to make their Spring 2024 pieces appear either shredded from aggressive wear or simply unfinished. Just in time for “spooky season,” this resulted in spiderweb-like pieces, ranging from the polished (Tom Ford) to the raw (Diesel) to the glamorous (The Attico).
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Bandage-like Strips
Speaking of garments that appear shredded or unfinished, several Milan designers — from Blumarine to Bottega Veneta to Jil Sander — presented updates on bandage dresses (and tops and skirts), where strips of fabric (in some cases leather) are left loose and hanging towards the hemlines, with swaths of fabric fluttering in the wind as models walked.
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Henleys
Two surprisingly casual, everyday, partially-buttoned basics crept their way into many Milan runways: henleys and rugby shirts. These layering staples were unsung wardrobe heroes in the early-to-mid 2000s, and it looks like they’re due for a proper comeback. Tom Ford, Andreadamo and Gucci took henleys in a sexy direction, while at Bottega Veneta and Benetton, they veer more traditional. MSGM and CGDS, meanwhile went full ’80s prep with their rugby shirt designs.
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Red leather
Gucci certainly wasn’t the only house to invest heavily in rich, sultry reds for Spring 2024. And despite these being spring collections, leather was a popular vehicle for this powerful hue, for bags and apparel alike.
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