admin A slick little pair of black capris, a forest green midi-skirt suit, an LBD with a chunky, sparkly collar—these are the things in St. John’s spring 2024 collection that I have no doubt will sell well, and be worn over and over and over by their respective owners. The brand’s MO—since St. John’s executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin took the reins late last year—has been to make wearable, unfussy clothes with a hint of the 1990s and the 1960s, with nods to classic American sportswear. This mission is aided by stylist and St. John creative consultant Karla Welch (the two shots in the look book of a model lounging in a white tee and gamine cigarette pants? Welchian to the highest degree).
This season, there are many garments that experiment with varying degrees of negative space, and this is where things get interesting. A leather jacket and matching skirt are made of interlocking circles of leather, creating a chainmail-like effect. A minty racerback knit mesh dress is made with two types of lurex and resembles a tennis ball in both texture and hue. The 1960s inspiration mostly manifests in smart mini skirts and matching jackets, and the standout of the season is in marigold satin faille with a series of slits down the front. For evening, there’s a sheer ballerina pink dress speckled with sequins (made with a bodysuit inside for modesty).
These aren’t particularly daring compared to what else is on offer at New York Fashion Week, but they are quite daring in the context of the brand. A perfect black pant is a necessity, but a tennis ball dress is something to remember.
