When Sergio Hudson started designing his latest lineup—dubbed collection 12—he first sketched billowy chiffon dresses with blouson sleeves, sheer bodices, and pleated skirts. Feeling inspired by the ’70s, he imagined Lynda Carter wearing them in the decade with boots. These dresses are wearable, chic, and, according to Hudson, “give you body, but they’re comfortable.” That was what Hudson found his clientele—a starry roster that includes Michelle Obama, Keke Palmer, and Blake Lively—were really craving.
The chiffon numbers were a departure from Hudson’s usual body-conscious dresses and razor-sharp tailoring (he makes a really good jacket). The masculine vests and ties in the beginning of the show also felt like both a new silhouette for Hudson and a tie into the ’70s inspiration—a dash of Le Smoking. The palette couldn’t have been more different from last season’s neon extravaganza; it was filled with jewel tones, hunter green, chocolate brown, and black.
However, even with all this newness, Hudson played to his strengths. He never loses sight of what his customer wants from him. “I know what they’re looking for in clothes,” he said. “Easier pieces, but not pieces that look like you would wear them around the house.” What does ease look like for these successful, stylish women? Form-fitting sequin midi skirts with coordinating long-sleeve tops, wide-leg trousers with leather bustiers and jackets, perhaps a three-piece suit. While this collection would never be described as casual, it wasn’t truly formal, either. Of course, there were plenty of shoulder pads and power suits. “You’ll never lose that from me, but I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised to see some of the new things that we’re doing,” Hudson said. Why mess with success?