Sea Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Sea’s Monica Paolini and Sean Monahan have been racking up the air miles. Last season they created their lookbook in a studio in Korea, just last week they were in Serbia creating the one you see here. It represents a return to form both in photographic style and in the collection.

For many people, Sea is synonymous with a quilted jacket with a rustic feel. Still in demand, this season’s variations looked very desirable. One version collaged graphic prints with ditsy florals; another charmer featured tea cups. “It’s very familiar and cozy,” said Paolini, pointing out the blanket stitch details. One of the ways the brand has started moving beyond its characteristic bohemianism over the past few seasons is by giving the Sea treatment to sportier garments, notably track pants. One option for spring featured lace stripes; jogging shorts had embroidery details. There was also a windbreaker dress, and, moving in more of a utilitarian direction, cargo-pocket shorts—styled with a pretty blouse. Less convincing were the so-called “shibori hiking” pieces; they looked like outliers.

The first look, an ensemble in white denim, fitted Paolini’s description of spring’s offering as Sea’s version of monochromatic dressing. Tonal dressing doesn’t have to be minimal, but it’s difficult to put more romantic styles in the same category. Lovely in its parts, it felt like there was a lack of commitment or crystallized statement to this collection.

Still, it was interesting to see how shape and silhouette could make similar materials tell different stories. Look three, an openwork vest worn over a shirt styled with a skirt worn over track pants translated a Little Women-like aesthetic into cool girl Victoriana. Its “cousin,” an airy, checkerboard tunic and pants—just the thing for a latter-day Penelope Tree— had an entirely different groove. You might even say it came out swinging.

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