Sabato De Sarno Ushers in a New Era for Gucci

One thing you won’t find in Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci: a colorful floral print.

It’s hard not to take in the designer’s debut for the Italian fashion house without comparing it to his predecessor’s collections. Alessandro Michele’s era at the brand was so singular, with obvious (and intentionally loud) codes that made it instantly recognizable — and massively influential, in the market as well as in editorial and celebrity circles. (It sold like hot cakes, until it didn’t.) However, in the lead-up to De Sarno’s first Gucci show, the Valentino alumnus made it clear that he’d be doing something totally different.

“It’s a very Italian brand with a huge heritage. Italian in craftsmanship, Italian in taste, and we lost that I think. I want to bring it back,” he said of Gucci in an interview with Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, later adding: “I want people to fall in love with Gucci again. That’s why I use the word ‘ancora’ for my show. Ancora means a lot of things,” he explained. “It means again, but it’s also more personal; it’s not something you lost, it’s something that you still have, but you want more of it because it makes you happy.” (Tell us how you really feel, Sabato…)

Where Michele shouted, De Sarno whispers. His main signifier is a deep shade of red, which, according to WWD, is inspired by the color of the original lining of the first-ever Jackie bag and the elevator of the Savoy Hotel, where Guccio Gucci once worked, and will cover all the new packaging. It was teased through all the marketing materials leading up to “Ancora,” and it runs through the Spring 2024 collection, popping out of the lineup of otherwise white, tan and navy looks in skirts, short-shorts, jackets, bags and platform loafers.

As far as the logo — a massive selling point for Gucci — it appears in the form of the signature GG canvas, showcased without any additional flourish on a short-sleeved jumpsuit and on short shorts, or on a glossy black mini dress or red shorts and skirts. When the brand name is spelled out, it’s not obvious, embossed into the grey fabric of a sweatshirt.

Accessories may be the biggest signifier, but they’re still not doing the most: There’s a big focus on the Marina Chain jewelry (as seen on Daria Werbowy) and well as dramatically high platform loafers (reminiscent of what we might see on the runways of De Sarno’s old boss, Pierpaolo Piccioli).

De Sarno’s silhouette is more explicit in its sexiness, conveyed primarily through silhouette: super-short hems, thin knit tops cut close to the body, tank mini dresses with open backs, skirt suits with no blouse underneath, boxy jackets worn by themselves to show off the legs. Even when the body’s covered up, the clothes are cinched in all the right places, to suggest the shape underneath.

It’s not necessarily nostalgic or referential, though, as many speculated the pivot toward minimalism might invite some re-editions from the Tom Ford era (which we’re seeing in the new Tom Ford). It really is what De Sarno suggested in his pre-show press: a collection that feels deeply rooted in the way people get dressed — and want to get dressed — today, with an emphasis on pieces that feel uncomplicated but complete on their own, that don’t require over-thinking or over-styling.

There are touches of extravagance, meant-to-be-noticed embellishments, but they’re still done with restraint — like the diamanté netting over a black bra top, accessorized with an equally-blinged-out shoulder bag, or tinsel-like fringe on a skirt and coat. (Though, there are a suite of all-over-sparkle tanks and dresses towards the end that will surely please the established Gucci peacock.)

It’s the sharpest aesthetic turn we’ve seen at a brand since… Well, since Michele took over for Frida Giannini and unleashed his maximalist, floral vision into the world. I wouldn’t be surprised if buyers received this first collection with the zeal and enthusiasm they did Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta — which is to say: You’ll see it everywhere.

See all the looks from Gucci’s Spring 2024 collection below.