Resort, Cruise and Pre-Spring are all names given to the same set of
collections. Normally set to drop in-store during January and
February, they act as a precursor to the following spring and summer
seasons, often producing trends that will resonate throughout the
year.
This time around, several designers chose exotic locales to display
their runway shows, from the Italian countryside and Cannes to Mexico,
Rio de Janeiro, Los Angeles and Seoul. It added an extra element of
excitement to off-season shows that are historically shot in a studio
setting.
Overtime, it became clear that certain fabrics and materials, both
expected and unexpected, were being used in abundance, giving an
indication of what to expect to see in stores early next year.
A Stitch in Time
Certainly not a new trend, crocheted apparel is proving to have
staying power, giving new life to ‘boho-chic’ and similar styles. The
fact that crochet wool can be rendered in many patterns, colors,
weights and styles offers a versatility consumers of all types can
enjoy.
Stella McCartney
Look 16: a long-sleeved, round neck, full-length, form-fitting dress
in soft green crochet ladder-stitched wool.
Dior – designer: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Look 79: a vintage-looking, cream-colored cotton knit crochet top with
a peplum and a matching skirt in a variety of stitches.
DSquared2 – designers: Dean and Dan Caten
Look 14: a pink wool crochet mini-length tank dress over a logo tee
and yellow briefs.
Carolina Herrera – designer: Wes Gordon
Look 49: a long-line orange cotton crochet tank top with a matching
long skirt in a lace pattern.
Frederick Anderson
Look 15: a blue body-con full-length long-sleeved dress with a deep
vee front in variegated silk wool crochet patterns.
Philipp Plein
Look 5: a cardigan and matching pants in orange cotton wool crochet
with a hexagon pattern and oversized diamante buttons.
Warm and Fuzzy Feelings
Faux fur is another trend with legs, mostly used for outerwear, it can
turn a simple coat or jacket into a show-stopper.
Givenchy – designer: Matthew M. Williams
Look 17: a peach-colored long haired three-quarter length jacket over
stirrup leggings.
Chloé – designer: Gabriela Hearst
Look 10: a full-length light blue coat with a broad collar and no buttons.
Christopher John Rogers
Look 12: a bright yellow full-length marabou coat over a yellow shirt and pants.
Coach – designer: Stuart Vevers
Look 5: a bright orange long haired faux fur short coat over a black skirt.
Victoria Beckham
Look 8: a short-length faux fur coat in neutral tones over a brown rib
mini dress and thigh highs.
Max Mara – designer: Ian Griffiths
Look 1: an off-white long coat with wide lapels embellished with black
tassels and metal studs, shown over a tank top and boxer shorts.
The Shining
Metallic, sequined and other high-shine materials, once reserved for
the winter and holiday seasons are now becoming prominent year-round.
Anna Sui
Look 28: a sleeveless four button jacket with rounded patch pockets
and a matching mini skirt, both rendered in bright silver leather.
Diesel – designer: Glenn Martens
Look 37: a long-sleeved top and matching skirt in a knit with a high
shine treatment in blue ombré.
Alberta Ferretti
Look 35: a bandeau top and matching waistless full-legged pants in
brown sequins under a transparent caramel-colored high-low shirt.
Johanna Ortiz
Look 18: a long split-front skirt in metallic silver teamed to a
classic blue and white striped shirt.
Chanel – designer: Virginie Viard
Look 35: a lurex, short-sleeved henley in purple, blue and yellow
narrow stripes with pink high-shine bikini briefs.
Christopher John Rogers
Look 5: a long silver metallic trench coat over satin cargo pants.
Scuba diving
‘Scuba’ is a double-knit fabric made of polyester fiber with a two-way
stretch. It is becoming more popular recently with ready-to-wear
designers, because it provides structure to a garment. Neoprene, which
is a type of synthetic rubber, is thicker than scuba and retains even
more body.
Gucci
Look 18: a pale pink chiffon dress with tiered ruffles over a black
full-length scuba suit with white seams, accessorized with custom
sneakers.
Louis Vuitton – designer: Nicolas Ghesquière
Look 6: a light green cropped zip-front top with a black web collar
and a double layer flounce mini skirt.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Look 19: a skintight blue scuba zip-front mock-turtle top with a
‘Basquiat’ type design and matching bike shorts.
Ferragamo – designer: Maximilian Davis
Look 7: a brown scuba long sleeved bodysuit with a black mock-turtle
neck and matching leggings.
DSquared2 – designers: Dean and Dan Caten
Look 31: a black form fitting neoprene jacket with fishnet inserts and
a red and white design on the sleeves with low-rise black bike shorts.