Proenza Schouler Unveils Its First Official Monogram for Spring 2024

Proenza Schouler Spring 2024.

Photo&colon; Jed Cullen/Dave Benett/Getty Images

The Proenza Schouler woman is never overdone. She’s not trying too hard. Her taste level is innate, immaculate. And Jack and Lazaro always know just what she needs.

Last season’s collection set the stage for a proposition that was even sleeker, even more pared-back — a full wardrobe that fits the life of a metropolitan woman. Spring 2024 builds on the concept, but strips it back further with sheer gauzy layers, open-back knits and intentional draping that conveys that sense of lightness we all want for the season (and certainly the day’s heat).

“It’s the first season where people are coming into the showroom and looking at the clothes like, ‘this is so light,'” McCollough told press backstage on Saturday. “Some of the dresses just weighed nothing. And as designers, we’re susceptible to heavy fabrics and layers, so it was a challenge for us. But a good one.”

The design duo shared how, throughout the week of fittings, they’d keep removing elements, peeling away more and more from their original concepts and stripping it back to the essence.

“We had all these hats in there — got rid of ’em,” McCollough said.

Proenza Schouler’s collections have this “nonchalance” about them, Hernandez added. “There’s an undone quality to the brand. The hair and makeup is always easy… Things were just tied in the back and created a drape, kind of how we wear shirts as jackets.”

The show was itself a mediation on art and commerce, staged at the Phillips auction house on Park Avenue. “As designers, commerce for commerce’s sake doesn’t make sense to us,” McCollough told Fashionista. “But we can’t have creativity for creativity’s sake, either. As designers, we’re producing something for someone to wear… we’re constantly pondering between those two worlds, of art and commerce. We thought it was interesting to show in Phillips because it’s a metaphor for that. That’s where art comes to be judged on its commercial viability.”

Hernandez built on this: “We’re art school kids. We like to play around. Some of our earlier collections are very experimental and wild, and that’s our soul. Now, we’re kind of grown-up and we sell clothes — it’s as simple as making real clothes, but with the soul of an artfulness and value and heart and all the codes that we believe in.”

The big news this season comes in the form of the brand’s first-ever monogram. “We’ve been working it for three years,” Hernandez revealed. “We kept killing it and bringing it back, killing it and making another one.”

McCollough estimated they’d gone through 9,000 iterations. The logo they landed one has two P’s that make an S — it’s discreet, but lets people know you’re a Proenza Schouler woman.

See every look from the Proenza Schouler Spring 2024 show.