Peter Do took a break from the runway last season, but he’s back in a big way for Spring 2024, first with a Helmut Lang debut at New York Fashion Week, followed a couple of weeks later by Tuesday’s Paris Fashion Week debut for his namesake line. The show notes read, simply, “This season, we want our work to speak for itself.”
It’s not clear why exactly he chose to take that break, or show in Paris, but the result is a no-skips collection of ultra-desirable, beautifully made pieces that amount to an excellent representation of his brand.
Shown in a primarily black-and-white color palette, these pieces certainly aren’t overcomplicated, but they are rife with special details that deserve to be seen up close. (Luckily, the runway was extremely narrow, and all guests got a front-row seat.) There are the slightly frayed waistbands of low-rise trousers; the lightweight but perfectly tailored shirts and blazers where a strip of fabric is intentionally wrinkled around the waist, just above where it’s tucked in; the leather trim on an otherwise sheer silk blouse (and other remarkable feats of fabric-mixing); the contrasting knit waistbands of long, airy skirts; the very, very subtle logos on pockets and waistbands. (Waistbands are big throughout.)
Also of note: the seamless incorporation of Peter Do’s Banana Republic collaboration, which I didn’t clock on the runway. The tuxedo trousers, trench skirt, detachable turtleneck and trench coat all look excellent in person, blending in with the main line.
What the show was really all about is how good these clothes look on the body: how beautifully they move, how light and easy they must feel to wear, and how deeply cool they make the wearer look. It’s the sort of collection you want to reach out and take for yourself. Unfortunately, customers will have to wait until next spring to shop it — and that they most certainly will.
See every look from Peter Do Spring 2024 below.
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Peter Do Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
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