admin “Our collections are an intertwining of our escapist teenage fantasies
and the spirit of nostalgic references from our upbringing,” said Alex
Russo – one half of the team behind Paolina Russo – in a press interview
prior to the brand’s show during Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW). The duo,
which is completed by Lucile Guilmard, were selected as the winners of the
first edition of Zalando’s Visionary Award in partnership with the event,
recognising them as “makers of the future”.
Founded in 2021, Paolina Russo has become known for its take on knitwear
combined with artisan techniques, bridging the gap between heritage
craftsmanship and technology. This was no different for the London-based
label’s spring/summer 2024 collection, which Russo said mixed “sports codes
with folkloric fantasies of stone circles” resulting in a subversive
exploration of knit, print, jersey and denim.
An important element of the line, according to the designer, was the use
of recycled and single-cotton fibres that reiterated the label’s commitment
to responsible practices – a quality made possible through a collaboration
with textile solution developers Pizarro. Such practices could be seen in
lasered denim and t-shirts, which Russo noted eliminated harmful processes
for workers and reduces the environmental impact of production.
Spotlight.
Silhouettes present throughout the collection ranged from low waisted,
flowing asymmetry to layered basics and figure-hugging forms, made possible
through a prominent use of ruching. Other techniques were also vast, as
crochet and intricate knitwear formed corset-like tops could be seen
combined with printed sportswear pieces.
‘Our aim is to create a modern context for craft…’
Such prints reflected the aforementioned folklore theme, a common staple
of Paolina Russo’s collections brought on by the past of the designers –
bringing together Russo’s suburban upbringing in Canada with Guilmard’s
French heritage. Commenting on this contrast, Russo said: “Both of us found
community and belonging through making, and it’s how we realised that craft
is something that exists because of communities and passes from generation
to generation.”
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Ultimately, the brand’s goal is to “create a modern context for craft”
through the development of technology, evident, as noted by Russo, in
signature illusion knits, which were also present in the SS24 collection.
Further proof of their efforts is also in the designers’ so-called
“collaborative manufacturing network”, through which they intend to treat
their supply chain as creative partners. Russo added: “We work face to face
and as locally as possible with our supply chain in order to approach
development hands-on and to experiment within the facilities of our
manufacturers.”
It is this mindset that led both Russo and Guilmard to apply and
ultimately win Zalando’s Visionary Award, bolstering the pair’s mission to
continue empowering others to consider their practices as well as their
self-expression. On the win, Russo said: “ Meeting the high standards of an
award like this brings us closer to our goal: modernising craftsmanship and
rethinking traditional techniques through innovation and responsible
fashion products. Winning encourages us to keep building a sustainable
brand and celebrates an alternative way of working.”
Spotlight.
