Yara Flinn is not one for grand inspirations. “I don’t like doing a themed collection,” she said. “Fabrics are always where I start.” Still, she couldn’t resist adding in a bit of Western flair, pared back to almost be invisible. A blue suit jacket, for instance, had a subtle cowboy-esque yoke, and form-fitting shirts and dresses came in a textured gingham. Even fringe—the most yeehaw of embellishments—looked cosmopolitan when paired with considered tailoring. The bandana-like necklines of a few of the cotton shirts, however, were accidentally on-theme. It only occurred to Flinn afterwards how aligned that detail was.
The shirting was particularly strong this season. Working with what she described as a “sun-faded color scheme,” with shades of celery green, pale pink, and light brown, Flinn made many variations of wearable tunics and cropped button downs. Fabrics are always crucial for Nomia: this season there was a floral brocade set (though Flinn wouldn’t style them together; too jejune); recycled polyester suiting; tightly woven cotton that almost has a techy feel; and seersucker.
Flinn adds a sporty insouciance to the pieces she designs. If she’s making a pale pink striped cotton shirt, for example, she’ll crop it and add a drawstring through the center. The long sleeve, clingy jersey tops had hoods and toggles, making them feel both work-appropriate and sporty. Don’t let the bermuda shorts fool you, this was a grown-up collection.