admin We’re living in a time when those in the public eye are no longer shying away from sharing the work they’ve had done or the in-office treatments they’re doing. In fact, they’re openly posting about them — it’s not uncommon nowadays to see a celebrity or influencer posing alongside a needle-wielding dermatologist on social media. But with so many Public Displays of Aesthetics flooding our feeds and so much innovation in the aesthetics space, it can be more complicated than ever to figure out which treatment is the right one. That feels especially true when it comes to non-invasive skin tightening treatments.
“It has never been a better time for non-invasive skin tightening procedures in the office,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner, associate professor and director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. “The latest technologies deliver effective results, with minimal discomfort and short downtime.”
Most recently, we’ve seen an increase in hype about three treatments in particular: Sofwave, Morpheus8 and Potenza. The latter two are radiofrequency (RF) microneedling devices that can tighten and rejuvenate skin over a series of treatments; Sofwave is an ultrasound procedure that achieves similar results using heat instead of needles. All three treatments work by creating “controlled injuries” below skin’s surface.
The concept of deliberately injuring skin may seem counterintuitive, but “the body responds to these micro-wounds by triggering collagen and elastin production, the proteins that play a role in skin firmness, tightness and smoothness,” explains Dr. Zeichner. “They take advantage of the skin’s ability to heal itself.”
According to Dr. Corey Hartman, a board-certified dermatologist in Birmingham, Alabama, “all of the imperfections that we aim to correct, like fine lines, scars or discoloration, can be improved by creating micro-injuries. And really, it’s the only way you’re going to make any significant change in the skin.”
These treatments can also target excess fat: “They can help with fat reduction if the needles are instructed to emit energy deep enough,” says Beverly Hills-based board-certified cosmetic surgeon Dr. Sheila Nazarian.
These technologies have been around for a while, but recent innovations have given way to faster, easier results. Earlier devices often came with lengthy downtime and deal-breaking pain, but with Morpheus8, Potenza and Sofwave, there’s very little of the former, because they bypass the top layer of skin, leaving the surface intact.
RF microneedling treatments require a series of three sessions spaced around six weeks apart. Sofwave, however, is a one-and-done treatment, and there’s no pricking or blood involved. “It’s ideal for the needle-averse,” says celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank of PFrankMD. “It’s done completely nonablatively, in the sense that it’s delivered through the top layer of the skin all the way down, without any actual puncturing or damage to the skin.”
Sofwave is a popular option if you want that snatched jaw effect. “It’s a great way to kind of ‘shrink-wrap’ the skin around the face and neck,” Beverly Hills cosmetic surgeon Dr. Gregory Mueller says. “It’s great at toning along jawline, chin and neck — a challenging area.”
Even though Potenza and Morpheus8 both rely on RF microneedling, there are subtle differences between the two. Potenza uses monopolar and bipolar energy, and “monopolar radiofrequency waves penetrate deeper into the skin, which is especially useful in treating conditions like cellulite,” says Dr. Zeichner. “(Morpheus8’s) bipolar radiofrequency energy remains more superficial, which is better for fine lines and wrinkles.”
Morpheus8 and Potenza offer greater versatility and customization than Sofwave. For example, you can tighten lax skin above the knees with large attachments containing long RF-emitting needles, but you can also treat the delicate eye area with small tips containing tiny needles. “I can really get in that sweet spot eye area with Potenza and do fine-tuning,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Karyn Grossman, who’s based in Santa Monica.
Many doctors use a combination of devices and treatments to tackle issues, rather than choosing one favorite machine or technique.
“We don’t age in one dimension. Everything has to look youthful together, from skin to underlying structure, and this endeavor involves a multimodality approach,” Dr. Nazarian notes.
“We’re looking at rejuvenating from below the skin, within the skin and above the skin, so I like to layer energy treatments,” Dr. Grossman adds.
Ahead, experts compare these buzzy skin-tightening treatments — and address their patients’ most-asked questions.
How soon can I see results from a skin-tightening treatment?
The results are never instant, so if you’re looking for a beauty boost leading up to an event, schedule your appointment several weeks in advance. “It can take anywhere from three to six months to see true improvement,” says Dr. Frank. Results also depend on the depth of the needles and number of treatments.
Doctors can also enhance microneedling results by applying topical infusions. “Potenza has a unique infusion tip that suctions the skin up, so ingredients go deep into those needle channels,” says Dr. Grossman, who applies a customized cocktail for each patient using nutrients and collagen boosters, like platelet-rich plasma, poly-L-lactic acid and tranexamic acid.
Are these treatments safe for everyone?
Sofwave is “color blind,” meaning it’s a safe option for people with melanated skin or issues with pigmentation. Potenza and Morpheus8 puncture the skin, so “you do have to show more caution in patients with darker skin tones. Although relatively benign, there definitely can be some downtime associated with it,” Dr. Frank explains.
Who are these skin tightening procedures best for?
All of these procedures are great as stand-alone procedures in your 20s, 30s and 40s. Older patients sometimes choose these treatments to postpone cosmetic surgery or, in some cases, enhance surgery benefits.
“I have my facelift and necklift patients do Morpheus8 every six months to maintain their results,” says Dr. Nazarian. “Surgery doesn’t change the quality of the skin — these technologies do.”
How much pain is involved?
You’ll definitely want to do some form of numbing or pain prevention. But, with the right approach, these procedures can be easily tolerated. (As in, minimal jaw-clenching or toe-curling.) Depending on your pain threshold and treatment area, you might opt for 45-minutes of topical numbing with medical-grade lidocaine. It’s common for doctors to also offer oral pain killers, like Toradol (which is like a very strong Advil) or inhalants like Pro-Nox (aka: laughing gas). “We can also add a mild sedative, too, but that can make people a little woozy. We don’t let you drive home after something like that,” says Dr. Grossman.
Is there any downtime?
Your face may look flushed immediately after any of these treatments, but that generally resolves within a few hours, according to our experts. There’s also a risk of needle-dot marks after Potenza and Morpheus8, but they’ll vanish within a day or so. If you tend to be acne-prone, you might experience a mild flare-up.
What’s the cost associated with in-office skin tightening treatments?
You can expect to spend around the same for Potenza and Morpheus8 — around $1,500 to $2,500 for one session to treat the face and neck, depending on your location. Doctors usually recommend a series of three treatments, spaced a few weeks apart, for best results. Larger areas, like the abdomen, can cost $4,000 or more per session. Sofwave runs roughly $4,500 to treat the face and neck.
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