London calling! LFW SS24 ran from September 15 to September 19, 2023.
As reported by FashionUnited
, although London is well known to be a great place to find emerging
talent, it is also a very expensive city to live and work in. Rising
star Dilario Findikoglu canceled her show citing insufficient funds
and the loss of Christopher Kane’s show, ( he entered administration
earlier this year,) from the calendar was deeply felt. On the other
hand, over 50 designers showed during the week delivering some strong
trends.
Blue sky thinking
Pantone, the global authority on color predicted a shade of blue they
called ‘Horizon Blue,’ “an atmospheric blue hue denoting where the sea
meets the sky”. This certainly played out at LFW with one or two
shades of pale blue shown on several runways.
Bora Aksu
Look 22: a broderie anglaise mid-length dress with broad straps in
periwinkle blue over a long satin slip in the same color, a sheer top
and a satin belt with crystal embellishment. A crochet cap and white
boots completed the look.
JW Anderson
Look 13: a blue Grecian style stretch jersey dress with exposed
stomach. Accessories included a tan handheld bag and crochet clogs.
Ashley Williams
Look 8: a short pale blue tank dress with a flounce and a black placed
print over shredded dark red jeans and yellow and red knee socks.
Fashion East, Standing Ground: designer: Michael Stewart
Look 29: a long pale blue dress in a stretch jersey with a draped
overskirt and fringed embellishment.
Emilia Wickstead
Look 8: a pale blue dress with cutout front and sides in a semi-sheer
fabric with a matching coat. Accessories included a white necklace and
earrings in organic shapes and lime green strappy sandals.
A stitch in time
British fashion schools are renowned for producing graduates skilled
in working with knit and crochet materials. As we saw in NYC this
season, many designers used this media to create showstopping looks.
Di Petsa: designer Dimitra Petsa
Look 2: a long low-cut dress with a high/low hem in several white and
gold knit weights and styles. Accessories included simple gold jewelry
and nude sandals.
Huishan Zhang
Look 8: a sweater with a geometric design, a deep vee front and a
cold shoulder, in a black and white silk knit and matching pants. The
look was accessorized with large hoop earrings and black boots.
JW Anderson
Look 6: a bright blue fit and flare short dress with pockets, in a
basket weave crochet style and beige crochet shoes.
Holzweiler: creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler
Look 28: a white cotton crochet bikini under black diamond shaped
crochet pants and a black silk coverall with a gold body chain and
earrings.
Supriya Lele
Look 4: a short white crochet dress with long sleeves and a deep-vee
front over gold underwear, accessorized by translucent rubber booties.
Fringe benefits
Extra-long fringe was perhaps the most predominant embellishment from
London designers.
Elena Reva
Look 19: a three piece white suit with a short boxy jacket, wrap front
mini skirt and pants over a black top with super long fringe. White
flat toed shoes completed the look.
Burberry: designer Daniel Lee
Look 39: a pink and blue heathered knit turtle-neck short dress with
extra-long fringe.
Feben
Look 15: a yellow beaded dress with extra-long fringe from the hips to
the floor over nude underwear.
Huishan Zhang
Look 5: a grey slub silk pant suit; a two-button jacket and matching
pants with extra-long black fringe hanging from the cuffs and waist.
Mark Fast
Look 49: a bright orange sleeveless fishnet knitted dress with a
fringed overlay and long white boots.
Seeing clearly
Several designers showed transparent and revealing looks making
liberal use of chiffon, tulle and other sheer fabrics.
16 Arlington: designer Marco Capaldo
Look 4: a sleeveless dress, covered in paillettes, made from
translucent latex was shown over black underwear and a silver ballet
slipper.
David Koma
Look 11: a neon green turtle-necked tulle dress with a black rose
insignia and a high/low hem over black underwear and thigh high black
boots with a silver toe cap.
Ivan Frolov
Look 5: a nude sequined corset under white tulle sashes and a long red
asymmetric tulle skirt, a large black and silver earring and silver
sandals, accessorized the look.
Erdem Moralioglu
Look 39: a cream-colored chiffon dress with an elaborately embroidered
bodice and layered skirt, accessorized with mis-matched earrings and
silver slippers with a fan embellishment.
Simone Rocha
Look 49: a long sleeveless fit and flare sheer dress stuff with
long-stem pink roses. Accessories included silver earrings and shoes
with nude ribbons.
Fit to print
London designers have long been credited with creating innovative
prints. This season is no exception with a series of eye-catching
all-over designs.
Burberry: designer Daniel Lee
Look 31: a long-sleeved round necked dress with asymmetric zippers and
hemline in a print featuring large blue strawberries, accessorized
with white loafers.
Paul Costelloe
Look 17: a white/brown and tan fit and flare halter-neck dress with
deep vee front in an intricate scarf-print that included bicycles and
cars. Accessories included espadrilles and silver cuffs.
Richard Quinn
Look 10: a long sheath dress with ¾ sleeves in a black and white flat
floral design, accessorized with white opera gloves and pointed toed
footwear.
Susan Fang
Look 32: a high neck short sleeved smocked blouse and a matching
ruffled skirt in a shadow poppy print. Accessories included white
socks trimmed with black lace and white sandals with pink floral
embellishment.
Emilia Wickstead
Look 20: a sleeveless long sheath dress in an oversized black and
white floral print, accessorized with red satin shoes.