Sao Paulo Fashion Week is arguably the most important fashion event in
Latin America. It has also become known as a prominent forum for
diversity and sustainability.
In recent seasons, curve models and ‘real’ people have increasingly
been seen on the Sao Paulo runways and since 2020, designers have been
required to show at least 50% of their collections on people of color
There have also been major developments in the areas of fabric
development and upcycling. Not to mention hiring local artisans to
create materials and embellishments.
The 56th edition of SPFW took place from Wednesday, November 8, 2023
to Sunday, November 12, 2023. The event featured a total of 38
presentations, including five premieres. Here are five trends that
made an impact and offered a first glimpse of what is to come in
runway fashion for fw24.
Latte Lovers
Brazilian designers embraced the current quiet luxury trend, using using latte colors of brown and tan in
combination with coordinating tones, to replace black for a variety of
stylish looks.
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Forca Studio: designers, Silvio De Marchi and Vivi Rivaben
Look 4: light brown faux suede full leg pants teamed to a purple vegan
leather bodysuit with cut-outs and a black wrap-around belt.
Helosia Faria
Look 4: a light brown wrap skirt with a pieced-in shirt in plain blue
and striped cotton, sheer socks and jelly sandals.
Ateliê Mão de Mãe: designers, Patrick Fortuna and Vini Santana
Look 5: a light brown knit ensemble including a bodysuit with fishnet
sleeves, mini skater skirt, fishnet stockings and a crochet handbag.
Rocio Canvas: designer, Diego Malicheski
Look 5: a light brown cowl neck top and wrap skirt in a technical
fabric under a stone-colored trench-coat and white slouchy boots.
Santa Resistencia: designer, Mônica Sampaio
Look 2: a light brown chiffon dress with a halter-necked
diamond-shaped top attached to the low-rise tiered skirt with a ring.
Technical Advantage
Designers the world over, including those in Brazil, are becoming
acutely aware of the need to research and use sustainable materials
such as fiber from pet bottles. Add to this the fact that athleisure
wear and athleticwear have reached new fashion heights of late,
meaning that sporty looks in technical fabrics are a desirable
combination.
Angela Brito
Look 23: a sleeveless pale green jacket with patch pockets and a
shoestring leather belt over a long black skirt with a balloon hem.
Az Marias: designer, Cinthia Felix
Look 8: a silver hooded raincoat in a technical fabric, with grey
pockets and black drawstrings with orange grommets.
Dendezeiro: designers, Hisan Silva and Pedro Batalha
Look 13: a polo shirt with a nude-colored pleather corset and short
black sleeves over white deconstructed cargo pants with silver
hardware. Accessories included an astroturf covered clutch bag.
Forca Studio: designers, Silvio De Marchi and Vivi Rivaben
Look 11: a cream-colored sleeveless moto jacket with silver hardware
over matching skinny pants; both in a high-shine technical fabric.
Hist: designer, Giuliana Braide
Look 25: a sleeveless short zip-up top with a flap pocket and black
sweat pants with blue and red placed prints depicting a semi-nude
model.
Cream of the crop
A certain silhouette, that of a cropped top and a skirt, repeatedly
showed up on the Sao Paulo runways, teemed with Brazilian flair. The
looks were often created in partnership with local artisans, for
example, Ronaldo Silvestre worked with crafts people from the Minas
Gerais region.
Az Marias: designer, Cinthia Felix
Look 30: a tie-front red lace top with tiered sleeves in red, white
and black lace with a matching layered floor-length skirt
Ateliê Mão de Mãe: designers, Patrick Fortuna and Vini Santana
Look 6: a dark green crochet bikini top with straw cups decorated with
cowrie shells and matching bottoms under a dark green crochet skirt
and stone-colored crochet sandals.
Renata Buzzo
Look 16: a pale pink cropped chiffon bustier embellished with shiny
bands of ribbon and matching midi skirt and silver slides.
Ronaldo Silvestre
Look 1: a navy satin top with cut away shoulders and a placed floral
print in turquoise, orange and pink over a turquoise zip-front midi
skirt with a black print in the same fabric. The outfit was finished
with oversized earrings and green and gold sandals.
Santa Resistencia: designer, Mônica Sampaio
Look 35: a cropped orange bustier and a full floor length skirt in
blue and orange with a large conversation print of a village.
Luxe Living
Brazilian designers proved their expertise at tailoring, displaying
elegant silhouettes in luxurious fabrics, in a range of colors, from
neutral shades to vibrant hues
Apartamento 03: designer, Luiz Cláudio
Look 3: a cobalt blue satin tuxedo jacket with a spackled white ombre
finish and matching pants with a sheer ribbed chiffon blouse and a
long-fringed embellishment.
Lucas Leao
Look 21: a peach colored gabardine suit with a broad-shouldered jacket
and matching full-legged pants accessorized with ballet slippers.
João Maraschin
Look 13: a cream-colored belted trench-coat over an orange dress with
layers of long fringe and a matching clutch bag plus cream-colored
sunglasses and point toe mules.
Weider Silvero
Look 20: a cobalt blue loose fit top and matching jacket over a cobalt
blue and white lace skirt. Accessories included floral earrings, a
blue bead choker, a blue bead bag with roses and blue slippers with
silver studs.
Santa Resistencia: designer, Mônica Sampaio
Look 8: a waffle knit halter-neck cut-out top with fringed hem and
matching pants.
In living color
Brazilian designers displayed a strong show of craftsmanship, with
bohemian silhouettes rendered in a variety of knits, crochets and
woven materials in mixes of bright colors.
David Lee
Look 12: a crochet blue dress with an orange shaggy knit design and a
long denim underskirt with a wide stripe print. Accessories included a
blue skull cap, cat-eye glasses and neon green backpack.
Led: designer, Clio Dias
Look 23: a multi-tiered long dress with a triangular front with silk
fringes in pink, yellow, green and turquoise and black strappy sandals
.
Lino Villaventura: designer, Cinthia Felix
Look 15: A top and skirt in seamed chiffon with sharp angles in a
tie-dye of navy, orange, purple and pink. Aquamarine fingerless knit
gloves, cobalt blue hose and black slip-on sneakers completed the
look.
Ronaldo Silvestre
Look 2: a crochet orange tunic with an extra-long fringe, navy and
turquoise print shorts and a matching jacket. Oversized jewelry and
black and neon green sandals completed the look.
Weider Silvero
Look 6: a burnt orange fuzzy knit tunic with a floral stencil print in
red and blue over an orange top and matching pants. Accessories
included a bold black bead choker and red flats with silver studs.