Isabel Marant Pares it Back for Spring 2024

Where Isabel Marant goes, shoppers follow. The designer and her eponymous brand have built the fantasy of aspirational “French girl” fashion into a massive global business: In 2022, it made $323 million in annual sales, and it’s working to get that number up to over $500 million within the next five years. Its growth has been fueled by a variety of factors: an organic celebrity fan base, strong retail presence, high-profile collaborations, a key investor. However, a lot of it boils down to Marant’s understanding of what people like to wear, and making the most luxurious version of that: printed day dresses, metallic mini skirts, loose-fitting tank tops, denim… In short, the makings of your easiest outfit, dialed up to 100. 

Season after season, the brand plays within this familiar field. That can make its runways feel a bit monotonous, with the same few ideas explored in new materials or prints. The collections are rarely touched by trends, because they don’t have to answer to them: Isabel Marant knows what its customers want, and it’ll always deliver. 

That’s not to say the brand is static — far from it: It’s still the brand that you expect the coolest model to wear on her off day, or that an impossibly chic woman will throw on to go on a walk. (I just walked past one the other day, wearing a “Marant” sweatshirt, on the street in Paris.) It just understands its customers’ desires before they even know what those are.

The Spring 2024 show, then, tells us that the Isabel Marant woman is interested in stripping it back to basics in the new year. 

The brand’s latest collection — which debuted on the Paris Fashion Week runway on Thursday night — shows a lot of restraint, in terms of color (it’s mostly black, white and silver, with splashes of magenta and blue, plus an occasional print), embellishment (where the brand would’ve previously placed heavy beading or sequins on a collar or hemline, it holds back, instead playing with ruching or other kinds of fabric manipulation) and silhouette: Dresses are short and sheer or calf-length and body-hugging; cutout bodysuits are worn with slow-slung bottoms with folded-over waistbands; short-shorts are paired with matching jackets or oversized knits. The accessorizing is just as uncomplicated, with many looks shown without handbags, worn with one of a few riffs on a wooden platform clog. 

The brand’s striking a different note this season. Another development: Marant brought out her artistic director (and longtime colleague) Kim Dekker for the final bow for the first time, an indication of the latter’s increased involvement in where the brand’s headed. It could just be a nice thing — but still: It does communicate that Isabel Marant, the brand, isn’t just about Isabel Marant, the woman, anymore. 

See every look from Isabel Marant Spring 2024 below.

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Isabel Marant Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

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