Inside “Golden Opulence,” an Exhibition Showcasing Istanbul’s Lasting Influence on High Fashion

Next is the Bosphorus Garden, an evocation of the importance of nature in Ottoman, Anatolian, and Turkish cultures. For centuries, tulips and pomegranates were reproduced in paintings, Iznik ceramics, and Suzani textiles, representing enduring love and abundance; here, the botanical profusion of Persian gardens was reprised in exceptional couture-level creations by contemporary designers. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing indulged in hyperbolic intricacies of golden embroideries, crystals, sequins and beads, replicating a rich antique tapestry on both an hourglass dress and a man’s suit, and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli created a regal Pink PP cape with a four-meter train, whose neckline was appliquéd with a pair of hand-folded tulips, “like two lovers chasing each other on the Bosphorus.” Turkish designer Dice Kayek’s silk mikado bustier dress was round-shaped like a tulip bloom with pointed panels recalling petals, while Etro’s Marco De Vincenzo presented a dramatic cloak and matching dress in jacquard lamé featuring a menagerie of paisley motifs and foliage.

Mineral Roundness

The exhibition’s last section, Mineral Roundness, celebrates the curved geometry of the cupolas, domes, and arcades that recur in Ottoman architecture. A remarkable creation by Turkish designer Ozgur Masur was made from tiny circles of glass, each featuring inclusions of floral bead embroideries typical of seven different Anatolian regions. Slightly Courrèges in feel, it married tradition and modernity.

“In the end,” reflected Benaïm, “it’s about the cultural dimension of fashion. There’s so much more to it than a logo or a pair of sneakers; fashion is the idealized expression of the times through dreams and ideas that materialize into shapes, fabrics, and exceptional savoir faire.”

The sentiment of connectivity and transmission that the exhibition was designed to convey was echoed by Rashid Mohamed Rashid, CEO of Mayhoola for Investments LLC, the parent company of Beymen, Valentino, and Balmain. “I was very keen to support this exhibition, as I strongly believe that the world is one village, where diversity and inclusion are paramount,” he said at the gala dinner following the exhibition’s opening. “But we need to have more demonstration of that.”

The book Golden Opulence: 500 Years of Luxuriant Style is available at Assouline.