denim, pant suits, trench coats & utility looks

During New York Fashion Week, held in September, established houses
and emerging designers alike presented their Spring-Summer 2024
collections. Among the most prominent trends, were some rather
practical ones that juxtaposed with others that were much more
romantic in nature. Many designers explored styles that were
structured or tailored. Here are our top four trends.

Suit yourself

Over recent seasons, tailoring has become an increasingly important
feature of the New York collections. For SS24, the structured jacket
in either single or double-breasted versions popped up on many runways
coupled with a variety of pant styles.

Adeam: designer Hanako Maeda

Look 17: a double-breasted jacket in sage green with a tulle
embellishment and matching pants.

Gabriela Hearst

Look 15: a double-breasted jacket in a pink suede-touch fabric with
stitching on the collar, flap pockets and matching pants.

Michael Kors

Look 19: a camel colored 3 button-jacket over a knit bra top and lace pants.

Staud: designer Sarah Staudinger

Look 16: A loose-fit pale blue single breasted jacket with a matching
vest and pleated-front trousers.

Helmut Lang: designer Peter Do

Look 21: a black single-breasted black jacket and pants with a gold
grosgrain side stripe and matching crossbody belt.

Practical magic

New York designers looked to utilitarian styles and details for a
series of low-key luxe looks, that work for the week as well as the
weekend.

Sally Lapointe

Look 1: a cropped moto-cross jacket in white over sheer layered white
tops and a long sheer paneled skirt.

Svitlana Bevza

Look 14: a red sleeveless jumpsuit in coated cotton with openwork detail.

Dion Lee

Look 38: an oversized heavy cotton pullover with metal studs and a red
metallic peplum with thigh-high black boots.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Look 15: an oversized cream-colored canvas jean jacket with a
double-wrapped self-belt and a matching wrap skirt over a white cotton
underskirt.

Tory Burch

Look 12: a pale grey blouson jacket with a hood and a hidden placket
over a micro mini skirt in a lighter color.

The blue period

Although denim was first produced in France, there is nothing more
quintessentially American than a pair of blue jeans. In recent seasons
New York designers have presented a wide variety of denim separates; a
trend that shows no signs of slowing down.

Ralph Lauren

Look 5: a denim jacket with a stenciled pattern and matching skirt
over a medium blue wash denim jacket.

Rentrayage: designer Erin Beatty

Look 18: a short-sleeved half denim, half striped cotton shirt with an
upcycled long denim skirt.

Ulla Johnson

Look 38: a blouson style denim jacket with a defined waist over
matching short shorts.

Dion Lee

Look 5: high waisted denim jeans coated with a high shine laminate,
matching lace-up boots with a front zipper and shoulder bag.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Look 45
A blue denim jacket and matching wrap front skirt over a nude bra top
and khaki cotton skirt.

In the trenches

Several New York designers showed lightweight trench style outerwear,
perfect for the spring season.

Theory: designer Jeffrey Kalinsky

Look 20: a long cream-colored classic trench coat with a self-belt,
over matching pants and a white shirt.

Brandon Maxwell

Look 32: a long cream double-breasted trench coat over a matching
dress with a broad silver belt.

Jackson Wiederhoeft

Look 8: a pale turquoise long cotton trench over matching pants and a
pale blue shirt with pearl embellishments and a belt.

Carolina Herrera: designer Wes Gordon

Look 38: an extra-long beige satin trench coat with extra-wide lapels
and a sash belt.

Libertine: designer Johnson Hartig

Look 20: a camel-colored mid-length double-breasted trench coat with
multi-colored floral embroidery and a self-belt.