admin Each season, David Koma selects a distinct muse as the focal point for his collections. For spring his creative inspiration was drawn from Queen Elizabeth II and her fondness for vibrant botanical colors and floral motifs (she attended the Chelsea Flower Show annually). However, it was the images of her during her military service in the early 1940s, particularly those of her confidently riding a Royal Enfield 250 motorcycle, that ignited his creative spark. “I’ve dedicated this to Her Majesty because it’s always been a dream of mine to dress her,” Koma shared in a preview. “When I found pictures of her during the time that she trained as a mechanic and motorbike driver, I loved the dialogue between the femininity that she’s known for and a sort of darker, edgier vibe.”
In contrast to the austere, gray Brutalist setting of Tate Modern’s basement show space, the collection offered diverse interpretations of floral motifs, with a special focus on the rose. The rose holds symbolic significance in English culture, harking back to its use as the emblem of peace during Henry VIII’s Tudor era. There were minidresses complete with trains featuring hand-drawn roses digitally printed onto stretch transparent mesh, which came in pink and white as well as green and black.
Other instances of the rose insignia were evident through ornamental 3D structures, a defining characteristic of the David Koma brand. Notable among these were enlarged rose and daisy designs accentuated with crystal embellishments incorporated onto an array of evening-appropriate dresses in black and pink. Another interpretation of these blooms took the form of chain-mail-esque elements, including a full dress covered in miniature daisy-like structures. Ruffle skirts gracefully imitated the silhouette of a blossoming flower.
Koma also found inspiration in Marianne Faithfull’s portrayal of the rebellious character Rebecca in the 1968 film The Girl on a Motorcycle. This materialized in miniature 3D roses—skillfully handcrafted from resin in white, pink, and tangerine hues—which adorned padded biker jackets, another Koma hallmark, as well as embellishing sheer dresses and twinsets.
New additions to the Koma-verse included an ambitious handbag line informed by the late queen’s style. There were four shapes in metallic shades, with the standout being the sculptural Apex clutch, which, as the designer described it, “can be seen as a shark fin or a rose thorn, depending on the vibe you’re going for.” Koma has a deep understanding of what his clientele’s preferences are, confidently enriching their wardrobes with his hyperfeminine, sci-fi aesthetic.
