color, fabric and print highlights

Fashion week in Paris for ss24 was held
between September 26 and October 3, 2023 with 140 brands showing. In
contrast to Milan, which saw the debut collections of several
designers, including Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci; Peter Hawkings
at Tom Ford and Simone Bellotti’s first collection at Bally, Paris
said farewell to two strong female leads, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen and
Gabriela Hearst at Chloé. They will be missed. Buyers on the lookout
for fresh designs were well rewarded. Here are the highlights.

1) A blue mood

Despite disappointment in some quarters that the colors were too muted, others felt there was
enough to keep next seasons’ customers excited. Shades of blue, and
cobalt blue in particular, brighten up the runways.

Acne Studios: designer, Jonny Johansson

Look 18: a cobalt blue semi-sheer maxi dress with an asymmetric split
and extra-long sleeves. Accessories included matching blue hose and
patent ankle strap sandals.

Balmain: designer, Oliver Rousteing

Look 45: a cobalt blue drop-waisted short dress with a deep vee front
and a flounced skirt was embellished with sequined pink flowers and
green stems. The outfit was accessorized with a yellow handbag, a
large diamante cuff, a large green cuff and peach and orange spectator
pumps.

Givenchy: designer, Matthew M. Williams

Look 25: a strapless fitted midi-length dress in cobalt blue suede
with oversized studs in one ear, a chain handle white bag, sheer blue
socks and navy blue ankle strap shoes.

Issey Miyake: designer, Satoshi Kondo

Look 24: a cobalt blue wide shouldered jacket over a cowl necked
blouse and matching pants in a fabric with surface shine.

Shiatzy Chen

Look 59: a cobalt blue chiffon duster with embellishment on the arms
over lighter blue knit top and shorts. Silver ankle strap sandals
completed the look.

2) On the dark side

When it came to fabric, denim, in many weights and finishes, made a
strong showing in Paris. However, it was dark and raw denimin new and interesting silhouettes that
made the biggest impact.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Look 15: a dark denim cropped jacket with red stitching and a matching
flounced skirt with bows on the pockets over a red tulle underskirt.
Accessories included black socks and rubber Mary-Janes.

Alexander McQueen: designer, Sarah Burton

Look 21: a dark denim jacket had a shaped waist and lace-up details
and was matched to short shorts. Silver earrings, black over-the-knee
boots and a black bag accessorized the look.

Sacai: designer, Chitose Abe

Look 13: a sleeveless dark denim dress with orange stitching and patch
pockets was shown with sheer black socks and black boots.

Schiaparelli, designer, Daniel Roseberry

Look 16: a dark denim coat with a dramatically oversized collar and
white stitching. The coat had gold buttons of mixed shapes and was
shown over a dress with a high low hem and contrast trim. Accessories
included a single gold earring, a gold cuff, white socks and sneakers
with a gold toe.

Y/Project: designer, Glenn Martens

Look 45: a short bodycon dress in dark denim with a ruffled neckline
trimmed with a light wash denim and defined bra details. Silver
earrings, a black clutch and white sandals completed the look.

3) Seeing red (and brown)

Leather was another popular material amongst Parisian designers, and
in addition to the more expected black jackets and other pieces, were
those rendered in red, rust and brown.

Alaïa: designer, Pieter Mulier

Look 37: a fitted brown double-breasted lambskin coat with a stand-up
collar, accessorized by a black fur stole, black stirrup leggings and
brown ankle strap peep-toe sandals.

Isabel Marant

Look 11: a short red leather top with wide cap sleeves over a matching
short wrap skirt, a silver cuff and black platform mules.

Loewe: designer, Jonathan Anderson

Look 18: a mid-length brown leather double-breasted coat with flap
pockets hiked up on one side with a matching tote bag and pointed toed
mules.

Rick Owens

Look 29: a red leather motorbike jacket with pagoda shoulders and a
lighter red maxi skirt. A sheer red veil and red platforms completed
the look.

Hermès: designer, Nadège Vanhee

Look 45: a red leather mini length coat with wide lapels and flap
pockets over a rib-knit short dress and red strappy sandals.

4) Fringe benefits

Akris: designer, Albert Kriemler

Look 53: a sleeveless drop-waist mini dress with extra-long fringes
and red Mary-Jane flats.

Ann Demeulemeester: designer, Stefano Gallici

Look 18: a black leather apron with extra-long fringe over a cream tailored suit

Mugler: designer, Casey Cadwallader

Look 31: a black blazer covered in long black fringe; nude fringe
hanging from stockings and a nude shoulder bag with extra-long fringe.

Mark Esber

Look 34: a white semi-sheer bodysuit under a white woven skirt with a
long sequined fringe and white round toed woven mules.

Christian Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri

Look 72: Long black strips of material hang from a bodysuit with a
sheer midriff and knee-high pointed toe strappy sandals. Jewelry
included a gold choker, a single earring and thin bangles.

5) Flower power

In the Devil wears Prada, Miranda Priestly might have stated
sarcastically, “florals for spring? …groundbreaking” and yet once
again, they were the most prevalent print. Bold flowers were the most
popular.

Chanel: designer, Virginie Viard

Look 66: large flat florals in shades of pink and yellow on a navy
background embellished with the brand logo in a variety of pastel and
bright colors and a matching top under a cardigan with a center placed
floral motif. A chain handle shoulder bag was the main accessory

Az Factory: designers, Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin

Look 33: a print of hot pink roses on an orange background was
rendered in Duchess silk for a detailed top and matching shorts.
Cobalt blue and orange pumps completed the look.

Balenciaga: designer, Demna

Look 65: a floor-length, cape sleeved shift, with a vintage-look print
of yellow and orange florals on a yellow background.

Balmain: designer, Oliver Rousteing

Look 35: a trench coat with a wet look finish and a print of large
roses in pink, green, pale blue, yellow and orange

Paul & Joe: designer, Sophie Mechaly

Look 22: a long shift dress with spaghetti straps and off-the-shoulder
short puffy sleeves. The print had large yellow sunflower heads on a
background of brown and tan colored leaves.