Co had a surprise in store for this season: color. And not the muted greens and deep reds they’ve offered before. No, for spring 2024, Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern are giving you swimming pool blue, sherbet yellow, and tangerine. It was only a few pieces—10 of the 20 looks are black and white—but it was still a marked departure for the brand. Danan was inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe, evident in the headscarves and short-sleeve button-downs in the collection, and wanted to bring in femininity via sculptural silhouettes, dimensional ruffles, and zippy colors.
Danan is working to refine the Co silhouette and make sure each piece feels like it could only be made by this brand. The key word here, from an onlooker’s perspective, was voluminous. Everything from a double-breasted jacket to the ruffles covering a dress was slightly larger than what you might expect. There was a languid, undone quality even in the more structured pieces, like a peplum poplin top and a gray belted blazer. This season offered airier, softer, and more cheerful clothing, without losing the signature proportions. See: the almost translucent yellow short-sleeve shirt and midiskirt, the pair of orange and blue caftans, and even the drop-waist black tank dress.
Part of the new mood was due to Danan’s ongoing collaboration with Samuel Drira, whom she described as “the best stylist in the world.” Drira is involved in the design process from the very first sketches and starts thinking then about how to bring each garment to life. Every outfit in the spring 2024 look book, for example, was paired with flat shoes, a choice that says a lot about the brand’s ethos. They brought the 3D ruffles wrapping around a model’s head, shoulders, and hips back down to earth. An ensemble that captured the season’s particular cool was Look 19: a pale greenish-gray single-button blazer worn with a tan bubble-hem maxiskirt, lace-up sandals, and a gold necklace wrapped around the wrist. The silhouette was unmistakably Co, and the styling was believable and aspirational at the same time. It seems as though this partnership has given the label confidence to venture into new territory. Perhaps bright colors are just the beginning.