Despite her predecessor’s penchant for an elaborate set, Virginie Viard tends to keep the backdrop for her fashion shows relatively sober; there may be a center piece (like last season’s larger-than-life camellia), but generally, she’ll stick to a black, white and grey canvas against which the clothes really stand out. So, it was quite a shock to walk into the Grand Palais Éphémère on Tuesday, where the Chanel Spring 2024 debut took place, and see bright, punchy floral collages by Inez & Vinoodh projected onto the walls. It set the stage for a collection that was equally zealous in its use of color.
While Viard’s work for Chanel doesn’t lack in color, generally we’ll see her use a pretty tight palette to flesh out the vision for the season, grounding it in classic shades like black, navy and ivory. The Spring 2024 collection, though, is much freer in its approach to color: There’s a black-and-white woven poncho with yellow, blue, green and red triangle stripes across it, worn on one shoulder over a blue knit bodysuit; the triangle stripes come up again, only sequined on drawstring-waist pants. The checked pattern on a white-grey skirt suit, upon closer look, turns out to actually be made up on colorful dots; it’s paired with a sequined top that mimics the look of stained glass. Pink appears in various shades, from dusty to saturated. There are only a handful of looks that are all black and/or white — and even then, many are paired with a blue leather boot that pops out.
According to the show notes, Viard was inspired by the gardens of villa Noailles, an early modernist home in the mountains near Hyères. The collection “is an ode to liberty and to movement,” Viard said, in a statement, which manifests in the colors, the geometric patterns and the bold clashing that convey this sense of independent thought and liberated way of dress.
“I tried to bring one thing and its opposite together in the coolest way possible,” Viard said. “And the gardens and swimming pool of the villa Noailles, that exceptional setting, lend themselves to that rather well.”
The most compelling propositions feature silhouettes that wouldn’t sound super appealing on paper, but Viard makes them work. (She has a hit in those culotte short suits with boxy collared sailor jackets.) There’s also a lightness to the collection, across the sheer tops, slip dresses and tweed suiting alike; these are clothes to move freely and widely in, that won’t hold you back.
See every look from Chanel Spring 2024 ahead.
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Chanel Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
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