Getting (and maintaining) healthy, bouncy, beautifully defined curls takes a certain magic blend of skill, products, tools and patience. But celebrity and pro hairstylists also rely on a handful of tried-and-true tricks to get perfect curls, every time.
Kim Kimble, celebrity hair stylist and creator of the Kim Kimble Hair Collection by HairUWear, explains that curly hair is unique in its need for more moisture and hydration. It “has a tendency to be more dry because the oil doesn’t travel down the hair shaft as smoothly as straight hair,” she says. In other words, curly hair needs a little extra TLC in the form of moisturizing products and careful styling. Items like leave-in conditioners and styling creams are crucial, but having the right products isn’t all it takes.
Keep scrolling to learn what the pros do to create highly defined curls.
Eliminate Product Buildup
Because curly hair maintenance usually requires a slew of products (think creams, gels and leave-in conditioners), all those formulas can accumulate on the hair and scalp over time, resulting in buildup. When products are not fully removed, they can weigh curls down, make hair appear dull and create a barrier that blocks new products from being effective.
“Product buildup can seal the hair, thus making it very hard for moisture to penetrate, which, as a result, causes the hair to be dry, frizzy and undefined,” Lynette Lavia, a hairstylist specializing in curly hair at New York City’s Nunzio Saviano Salon, tells Fashionista.
“If your hair feels heavy or dull, you’re probably using too much product,” says hairstylist Johnny Wright, who has counted Michelle Obama as a client. “While (special) products are essential for curly hair, overindulging in them can result in dry, dull hair.”
To clear buildup, Lavia recommends using a clarifying shampoo or doing two rounds of shampooing. To restore moisture after that intense cleaning, she says a deep conditioner would be best.
Add Styling Products to Wet Hair
The ideal time to style curls is when they’re still sopping wet, right after washing and conditioning. Lavia says she listens for a “wet sock-like sound,” which she says “lets you know that the hair is very hydrated” and ready to be styled.
“Always apply (styling products) from midshaft to ends, running your fingers through with a little bit of tension to get the smoothness and formation of your natural curls,” she adds. “Preferably do this with your head upside down for maximum volume.”
Tilting the head or holding it upside down creates more space for each curl to set, dry and, thus, have more volume overall.
Your Fingers Are Your Best Curly-Hair Styling Tool
Air-drying curls or using a blow-dryer with a diffuser attachment are two sure-fire ways to get volume and definition. Air drying takes more time and no heat, while using a blow-dryer helps speed up the process and usually involves heat. But before choosing either, there’s a more involved way to set curls: twisting each one around your finger.
“To achieve the best results,” Wright tells Fashionista, “use a styling cream of your choice to ensure curls are properly moisturized and section off hair.” Then, wrap individual curls, where they naturally separate, around your finger, hold for a second and release. While it can be a tedious and timely process, he says the results can last a bit longer, for up to a week.
For Lacy Redway, a celebrity hairstylist who has worked with the likes of Nicki Minaj and Lupita Nyong’o, fingers are her favorite tool to create definition. She says she finger coils “depending on the curl pattern to enhance its appearance” and then follows that up with a diffuser attachment on a blow-dryer.
Use ‘Targeted Heat’ — With Caution
Regardless of curl pattern, it’s crucial to avoid heat damage, which can irreparably disrupt the strands and cause lasting damage. Redway, who uses a blow-dryer with a diffuser on many of her curly-haired clients, stresses the importance of using heat protectant products as “a barrier between the strand and the heat.” Plus, she advises, don’t use heat daily.
Redway likes to set the diffuser tool at the roots, which is what she calls using “targeted heat.” By doing this rather than waving the blow dryer around, the hair dries faster, better maintains curl shape and has longer-lasting volume.
Don’t Neglect Trims
It’s simple: Getting regular trims keeps hair healthy, prevents split ends and encourages new growth. For anyone with damage, letting go of that baggage and making room for new, healthy strands will also encourage more curl definition. Redway recommends a quick snip every two-to-three months for most curly-hair havers, though it can vary slightly per person.
Keep scrolling to shop expert-approved curly hair products that help maximize definition.
Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross Transition Mask, $25, available here
Mielle Organics Babassu Mint Deep Conditioner, $16, available here
SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Hair Mask, $16, available here
Denman D3 African Violet Original Styler 7 Row Hairbrush, $24, available here
Aunt Jackie’s Aloe Mint Lather Up Shampoo, $13, available here
The Doux Bee-Girl Curl Enhancer, $16, available here
Carol’s Daughter Goddess Strength Fortifying Sulfate Free Shampoo with Castor Oil, $16, available here
Rahua Enchanted Island Vegan Curl Butter, $48, available here
Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross Cleansing Shampoo, $20, available here
Briogeo Farewell Frizz Blow Dry Perfection Heat Protectant Cream, $26, available here
Lush Super Milk Conditioning Hair Primer, $22, available here
IGK Good Behavior 4-in-1 Prep Spray, $32, available here
Curls Blueberry Bliss Reparative Leave-In Conditioner, $15, available here
Camille Rose Rosemary Hair Treatment, $20, available here
Taliah Waajid Leave-In Conditioner, $10, available here
Nexxus Curl Define Leave-in Conditioner, $16, available here
OurX Intensive Conditioning Compound, $32, available here
Eva Nyc Mane Magic 10-in-1 Primer, $13, available here
DevaCurl Mist of Wonders Leave-In Instant Multi-Benefit Curl Spray, $40, available here
Not Your Mother’s All Eyes On Me 10-in-1 Hair Perfector, $7, available here
It’s A 10 Miracle Leave-In Product, $40, available here
Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. In no way does this affect our editorial decision-making.
Want the latest fashion industry news first? Sign up for our daily newsletter.