admin “No more vanity,” declared Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson at a preview of his spring 2024 collection.
Not in reference to his sultry spring lineup. Not speaking of celebrities he’s been busy outfitting in custom looks of late, including Victoria Monet, Asake, and Ice Spice. But in the way he’s been running his business. “I’ve been taking the time to make sure the foundation is strong,” Thompson said. “I want to make sure that the attention we’ve been getting builds us up for more than just that.”
Theophilio enjoyed a swift rise. Thompson became a darling of the New York fashion scene quickly, winning the CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year Award in 2021, hosting a much-talked about show last September, and partnering with Amazon Luxury Stores for an exclusive capsule collection late last year. Just last week, he was one of the two designers that Naomi Campbell tapped to work with her on her PrettyLittleThing collection. All of these happenings certainly raise a designer’s profile, but do they all lead to a solid business?
Yes and no. “Despite what it’s looked like, this has been an extremely hard year for us,” said Thompson, who skipped the fall 2023 season altogether. He’s back for spring and says he wants to “take this moment to drive the DTC business and make the brand less about an Instagram moment.” This season’s lineup featured his usual loose gauge knits in alluring new skin-baring cuts, plus a run of cool Y2K lurex denim separates, and his signature snakeskin embossed fabrics in tailored silhouettes cut in vibrant colorways. The designer’s draped hooded knit gowns were striking and resort-ready—made for both the red carpet and the beach—and his tailoring was sharp as ever.
“We’re evolving to a sort of destination brand,” Thompson said, his head fully in the game. “So where will we go next?”
