4 (Very Different) Stylists Put on Their Designer Hats For Moschino's 40th Anniversary

Moschino has never been the most conventional fashion house, but it did something especially unconventional for its Spring 2024 runway show in Milan on Thursday night, which also served as a celebration of its 40th anniversary: It hired four stylists — Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand — to each design 10 looks that pay homage to its founder, Franco Moschino. (The brand is currently between creative directors following the departure of Jeremy Scott after 10 years with the brand. It’s truly been an era of transition in Milan.)

Titled “40 Years of Love,” this was not your average runway show: There were five acts — one for each collection, followed by a violin performance — and a grand finale. There was a lot going on, especially given that the stylists’ interpretations of this maximalist house’s legacy couldn’t have been more different from one another.

Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele for Moschino

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De Dudzeele, who worked with Scott at Moschino for many years, took the most relaxed approach, presenting an assortment of wearable classics in black and white with fun twists like exaggerated beanies and crystal adornments. Perhaps thanks to her experience with the house, she also seemed the most relaxed about the whole project.

“The house of Moschino asked me very nicely if I can do 10 clothes and I said, ‘Of course I can,'” she told me matter-of-factly backstage after the show. “But I was not going to do extravaganza. So I picked all the classics that I always wear. And Mr. Moschino loved all the classics, always.”

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson for Moschino

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For Act Two, Karefa-Johnson presented a collection she described as “NOWstalgia” in the show notes. It references early-’90s Moschino while being unmistakably her: youthful, colorful and boldly uplifting. She was a little less relaxed about the project in the beginning.

“It was like, ‘I’m obviously going to do this, but I’m scared shitless,'” she admitted. “I wanted everyone to like it because us millennials need constant validation. But, at the end, I realized it doesn’t really matter what anyone else thinks. Even in the music, there was (a quote from an interview with) Franco Moschino, where he says, ‘It’s not up to me. Once I put it out there in the world, it’s you guys’… I did my vision, and then it’s none of my business. That’s very much how it was.”

That said, she clearly loved the experience.

“I also feel sad that this isn’t what I do every day, because I love the process,” she said. “I’m switching careers, babe. I’m going to Parsons. I’m going to CSM. I’m doing all the things now.”

Lucia Liu for Moschino

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For the third act, Lucia Liu showed a more romantic, feminine interpretation of Moschino’s work, with a touch of the brand’s signature wit in the form of a T-shirt that reads, “Protect Me From Fashion System”.

“It’s very girly, but meanwhile has those cool vibes,” she explained.

Liu was especially excited about the opportunity because she actually studied fashion design and, having gone the styling route, had never gotten to use those skills to create a runway collection.

Katie Grand for Moschino

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While all the collections were unique, Grand’s was simply on a different plane. Inspired by the concept of “loud luxury,” she put her collection of graphic black-and-white streetwear (including a T-shirt bearing that very slogan) on dancers who performed choreography by Wayne McGregory, jumping an gesturing wildly down the runway.

There was a through-line between each act: As Karefa-Johnson put it, “Fun was in the center of every collection.” It wasn’t just about the clothes, but also the music, the models and their energy. The show brought back the joy and posing of ’90s runway shows.

“I wanted the models to walk and to be strong and not walk like candles,” said De Dudzeele. “I love real. I love the street. I love normal. At-ti-tude.”

See every look from the show below.

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Moschino Spring 2024 by Lucia Liu. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight